Switzerland part 2: The Magic of Montreux, Switzerland

Montreux is a sedate town on the northeastern shore on Lake Geneva on the Swiss Riveria. It is known not only for its spectacular lake and mountain vistas, but also for Freddie Mercury and Queen, an agreeable climate, and a laid-back atmosphere. It is one of 309 municipalities in the Canton (federal state) of Vaud.

The train ride from the Geneva Airport to Montreux is between rush hours and is quiet and comfortable. We had been concerned about where we would put our suitcases but there is plenty room for them next to us. The route parallels crescent-shaped Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), which stretches northeast from Geneva to Montreux. The train zips past quaint villages, terraced grape vineyards, the city of Lausanne, and the towns of Nyon and Vevey. We disembark at the Montreux station and are greeted not by the consistently blue skies during my first trip, but by somber grey clouds and a steady drizzle of chilling rain. We cancel our plans to roll our luggage downhill five blocks to our hotel. We are relieved when we see taxis, black luxury vans, awaiting passengers. We are wet and chilled so we barely flinch when the well-dressed driver informs us that the charge is $20, which includes a luggage handling fee, for the short trip. It is a reminder of just how expensive Switzerland can be if one is unwary. Tipping in Switzerland is neither required nor expected because salaries are high compared to some countries. The average minimum monthly salary is $4100.

After a two-minute ride, we arrive at our hotel, Parc & Lac. Like other multi-storied, terraced hotels on Rue 38, it is a historic building that hails back to a time when both people and accommodations were much smaller. This is evident when our luggage won't fit on the antiquated, caged lift (elevator) with us. I am certain that it was a dumbwaiter or trash chute at one time. Israel will have to make two more trips to get our luggage to the 4th floor.

Of course our room presented totally different on the Internet. For the discounted price of $85 per night, the room is 10'x10' with no closets, chairs or table--only a double bed and a tiny bathroom with plumbing that emits a pungent odor of antiquity. There is just enough space between the foot of the bed and the wall on which the television is mounted, to squeeze onto the balcony. I have brought my husband to Switzerland for his birthday and I am disappointed that he can’t see the spectacular view of Lake Geneva and the mountains that I enjoyed during my first trip to Montreux. I wonder if the rain will cease before we leave for Lauterbrunnen where the major event for his birthday will be us paragliding over the village.

The next morning, the clouds have cleared and we maneuver our way between the wall and the bed and open the balcony door to a view so breathtaking that I instantly forget about our matchbox accommodations. From the balcony, we are in awe of a scene that is dominated by hues of blue with a streak of gold from the rising sun. Lake Geneva spreads before us in all its splendor-- sparkling aquamarine surrounded by indigo mountains that look like craggy pillars supporting a cerulean sky. People have already started their strolls along the Riviera lakeside promenade. Lake Geneva has the distinction of being Western Europe's largest fresh water lake. Its clear water is swimmable and even drinkable after some processing.

Israel and I again squeeze into the lift and take it to the breakfast room. Breakfast isn’t included in the price for the room. We prepaid ten dollars for each of us for what turned out to be a basket of bread, condiments, juice, and coffee. The baskets are lined up on a counter. We find the one with our name on it. After breakfast, we walk two blocks to a bank machine at Migros market in the mall near the Riviera. Using our debit cards to exchange dollars for Swiss francs is an easy transaction.

One of the draws to Montreux is the promenade. The park-like Riviera evokes the tranquil scene the of Georges Seurat’s painting, “A Sunday Afternoon on La Grande Jatte”-- Well, in some ways: picnics on the grass, lovers strolling hand-in-hand beneath shade trees, children darting cheerfully about, the elderly and young couples and singles stare at the lake from benches as though they are mesmerized. The promenade is also a walk through an open-air art museum lined with flowers and with striking sculptures in various mediums. A boy on a tall leaning ladder reaches for the sky; a girl in bronze leans toward the lake with the wind caught in her hair and dress; a young couple in bronze embrace on a bench… .

We are fortunate that our week-long trip to Montreux includes a weekend when vendors stationed in tents sell their wares, musicians play from stands, and tempting smells from food stands waft through the air delighting the senses. It is the same area where the Annual Jazz Festival is held. We join the diverse group of people casually strolling the promenade. We meet a woman from Ecuador who is selling clothing. She tells us in Spanish how much she loves Switzerland because the salaries are high and because the country is safe for her children. Apparently, this is true for many parents on the promenade who are allowing their children to run and play out of their range of vision. We notice this because we are from a country where children are abducted even from the most diligent parents.

Two African women sell fresh ginger and fruit. I photograph a young Muslim couple with their son as they stand on a rock that juts into the lake. They try to coax the swans floating on the calm waters. A small group of Japanese tourists saunter by. A dignified sheikh breezes by wearing a Kandura, a flowing white robe, a headscarf and a headband. Several women trail steps behind him wearing the Abaya, a long black robe with a hijab covering their heads. The United Nations comes to mind. During my previous visit to Geneva, I was surprised by the significant number of persons of color living in that city. Switzerland actually has a progressive program for successful integration of foreigners into the country and culture. This is evident through the work of Thomas Kessler, who is in charge of integration in Basel, Switzerland. Other countries, including the United States, should follow his example. He said:

“Swiss society can only function if the successful principle of equal opportunities is adhered to. The rot would set in if we allowed the country to be divided into winners and losers.”

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Israel and I stop at a restaurant-bar on the promenade and sit outside under a chestnut tree. We are startled by loud “thunks” from something crashing against the ground. They are chestnuts falling from the tree. No one reacts except us. We realize that for a moment, we were taken back to the rash of shootings in the United States. Sensing danger when children wander too far from their parents and being startled at the sound of chestnuts exploding against the ground, tells us that we are a bit shell-shocked. But we remember where we are and allow ourselves to soak up the stress-free, peaceful vibe of Switzerland.

What’s Freddie Got to Do with it?

A major attraction on the Promenade is the bronze statue of Freddie Mercury, front man for the band Queen. As an Avid Queen fan, I, too, am caught up in the magic of the enigmatic “Freddie” and for that reason, a visit to the statue and the band's former studio is at the top of my itinerary. Throughout the year, fans make the pilgrimage to the statue of Mercury to take photos and place flowers at his feet, particularly on his birthday, September 5. A short walk away on the Rivera is the Queen recording studio (formerly Mountain Studio) on the second floor of Casino Barrière. It features an exhibit called “Queen: The Studio Experience Montreux.” The studio showcases some of Mercury’s most flamboyant costumes and some of the band’s musical instruments. Inside the control room, visitors can see some of Mercury’s handwritten lyrics, photos, and other paraphernalia. Most sobering is the marked spot where Mercury sang his swan song, literally in May 1991. He died six months later in his England home from complications due to AIDS.

The Cuisine

Depending on visitors’ expectation of satisfying their palates, Swiss cuisine might be a disappointment. For visitors who prefer well-seasoned or spicy food, be prepared for small, bland, yet expensive dishes. Anyone who can survive off chocolate and cheese will be in heaven because both are exquisite throughout the country. Fondues are very popular in restaurants. However, Swiss dishes in general are a combination of French, Italian, and German food and can vary from canton to canton. Some popular dishes consist of potatoes, veal (often with a cream sauce), and cheeses, among others. An average dinner for one is $30-$50. There are numerous sandwich shops that are less pricey. There are surprisingly many Italian restaurants in French-speaking Montreux. We go to an Italian restaurant next door to our hotel and order small individual pizzas for $25 (usd) each. Some expats offer a cheaper alternative when eating out: soup, bread, and salads. The fresh food market is also great place to shop for people who want to save money. Salads and produce for cooking are reasonably priced. Ultimately, the tastiest and least expensive food we have had in Montreux was street food prepared mostly by immigrants at the weekend festival.

One of Israel's birthday treats is a romantic gourmet lunch cruise on Lake Geneva. The point of embarkation is a short walk from the hotel. From the historic paddle steamer are panoramic views of the Swiss and French Alps and Chillon Castle. Again, I am glad that I made reservations and bought tickets online. The cruise is two hours so we have plenty time to eat. Israel has a pasta and chicken dish (bland) and my meal is so unremarkable that I quickly forget what it was.

"I Never Want to Leave"

It is easy to become smitten with Montreux with daily walks along the promenade on the Riviera while breathing fresh crisp air and succumbing to the gentle ambiance created by the lake. On one such outing, a woman from the United States stops me and asks where the Freddie Mercury statue is. I don't know how she knows that I speak English. I'm not wearing a baseball cap or t-shirt with n"U.S.A."emblazoned across the front. I know that she is enchanted with Montreux when she says, "This has to be the most beautiful place in the world." She adds that she doesn't want to leave and will "sweep floors" to stay. She apparently doesn't know that Switzerland makes it more difficult for non-E.U. (European Union) citizens to become permanent residents. Switzerland, ironically is not an E.U. member but the countries do have a trade agreement. U.S. citizens are required to live in Switzerland for a minimum of five continuous years before they can apply for permanent residency. However, we can remain in the country for up to ninety days without a visa.

As the Montreux visit nears an end, we are reluctant to leave, yet excited about our next stop, the picturesque mountain village of Lauterbrunnen.